Mount Ijen’s gorgeous vistas have captivated travelers for centuries, but in recent years, its sulfur mine has become a controversial tourist attraction. Thirty-six-year-old Hadis has been a full-time ...

"You lost sir? Follow us." Two men emerge from the dark beside me like a mirage, puffing clove cigarettes and twirling large bamboo shoulder baskets over their heads. Their names, they say, are Addis ...