Critics often bash them as “umbrella drinks,” which can be code for “syrupy sweet” and “excessively showy.” But true cocktail-lovers know there’s more to them than that. We call them “tiki” drinks, ...

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Over the past few weeks, as I tasted a variety of wines and ripe summer fruits while composing sangrias (hey, it's a tough gig, people), I kept flashing back to my early 20s. I'd stumbled into taking ...