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I’m standing in front of a Din Tai Fung located inside a shopping mall in Taipei watching a team of seven masked chefs in stiff white coats behind a glass window — kneading, filling, weighing, dusting ...

The worldwide chain is famed for precision-engineered xiao long bao, but the ones in New York are less than reliable. By Melissa Clark Melissa Clark, an interim restaurant critic, ate at Din Tai Fung ...